There are essentially 7 different methods that can be used to start locs. The best method for you depends greatly on the combination of your hair texture, hair length, and desired end result/size. I want to be very clear that every hair texture can form “locs” with time, patience, and proper care. The commonality of each technique is that the hair will go through the phases of locking, but the difference is how they will look during the evolution.
The 7 Methods to Start Locs
1. Starting Locs With Two Strand Twists
Locs can be started with two strand twists with as little as 4 inches of hair, and it is often the go to method for longer hair or highly textured hair. Starting locs with two strand twists will give the locs a solid internal foundation and create thicker locs, depending on the size of the two-strand twists.
Drawbacks:
The lines of the two strand twists can take 6 months – 2 years to completely disappear and produce the appearance of solid locs.
What to expect:
In the beginning, your twists may unravel at the ends, so it is important to always maintain the locs from root to ends. Locs that are started with two strand twists can use palm rolling or comb twisting for maintenance.
RELATED: Advice for Starting Locs With Two-Strand Twists
2. Starting Locs With Braids / Plaits
Locs can be started with braids / plaits with at least 5 inches of hair of any texture. Braid Locs, as they’re called, are ideal for individuals that sweat a lot in their scalp or that wish to maintain their locs with interlocking.
Drawbacks:
The braided pattern in the hair can take at least 1 year to disappear, and with longer hair the pattern may never fully disappear. Also, keep in mind, because the braiding pattern produces more of a linear aesthetic the resulting locs may be flat in appearance rather than circular.
What to expect:
In the beginning, your braids may unravel at the ends. You can remedy this by styling your locs after a maintenance session or by threading the ends. Locs that are started with braids / plaits can use palm rolling or interlocking for maintenance.
Texture doesn’t determine if your hair will lock. Your patience does.CLICK TO TWEET
3. Starting Locs With Comb Coils
To start locs with comb coils, you only need about 2-3 inches of hair (depending on your desired end result) and they can be done on any texture of hair. This method utilizes a comb to create uniform coils around your head, which are often the go to technique for pencil-sized traditional locs.
Drawbacks:
While shorter lengths will lock fairly quickly with this method, starting locs with comb coils on longer lengths of hair will take longer to lock because the inside of the comb coil is hollow and the coil has to mesh together internally first to begin loc’ing.
What to Expect:
Comb coils can be sensitive to water with soft textures so you want to be sure to only wet them when you’re shampooing them to prevent them from coming undone. Once the ends are sealed and there is a bud on the end, this method “looks like locs” the quickest.
4. Backcombing
This method is commonly used amongst Caucasians, or individuals with naturally straight hair, because it involves teasing the hairs to “create” an internal intertwining of hairs, then palm rolling it into the shape of a loc. I’m personally biased towards backcombing because that’s how I started my current set of locs and it worked out perfectly for my soft, fine hair texture.
Drawbacks:
If you don’t maintain the locs properly in the beginning you can have “blow-outs” or budding on the shaft of the locs instead of the ends.
What to Expect:
Backcombing gives you “instant locs” that are easy to maintain using the palm-rolling or comb twisting methods.
5. Interlocking / Sisterlocks